In Lyon, the war around the name of Paul Bocuse is declared

Paul Bocuse, in 2011, in front of his restaurant L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, in Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, near Lyon. Laurent Cipriani/AP

INQUIRY – In 2023, a trial will oppose Jérôme Bocuse to the Paul Bocuse Institute, where the representatives of the largest Lyon families sit. The famous chef’s son wants his name back. An earthquake that indirectly affects the center of excellence in gastronomy wanted by Emmanuel Macron and created by Laurent Wauquiez in Lyon.

Among the Bocuses, a line of cooks since 1765, misconduct has not been lacking, but the preservation of the name is fundamental. Especially since 1921, when, to take revenge on his wife who was a little too beautiful (1), Paul Bocuse’s grandfather gave up his surname to a Russian named Borissof. In 1966, just after his third star, Paul Bocuse bought the three precious syllables. The humiliation of being nicknamed “Bocussoff” is over. He hangs his six neon-style golden Broadway letters on his inn in Collonges, near Lyon. He is also the first of the great chefs to embroider his name on his white jacket where the heart is.

In December 2021, it is the turn of his son Jérôme to go into battle. Believing that the Paul Bocuse Institute, the prestigious culinary and hotel school in Écully, west of Lyon, is overstepping his rights and damaging his father’s image by squandering his name, he has been trying for three years to settle the affair. “I personally tried mediation but it didn’t…

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