Monday whispers: Laurent Petit celebrates his 30th birthday at Clos des Sens, Evian: Roussin leaves, Dussart arrives, Vincent Favre-Félix the eternal return, Lyon-Ecully: rififi at Bocuse, Jean-Michel Cazes says it all, Alexandre Semperé aux Ombres, Martin Simolka upsets the roof-top of the Molitor | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Laurent Petit celebrates his 30th birthday at Clos des Sens

Laurent Petit © GP

On November 8, Laurent Petit will celebrate his 30th anniversary at the Clos des Sens in Annecy-le-Vieux. He then bought, with his wife Martine, the old Salino house, taken over for a time by a pupil of Guy Savoy, Didier Roque. Since then, we know the story. A native of Haute-Marne, who has since become the most militant of the great chefs of Savoy, Laurent has won three stars by imposing his vision of Savoyard, lake and vegetable cuisine. Her birthday meal as a tribute to all the stages of her journey. ” With my former students who make Savoyard gastronomy shine with their stars – in the order of their presence (all for several years): Alain Perrillat-Mercerot at Atmospheres du Bourget du lac, Florian Favario at the Auberge de Montmin at the Col de la Forclaz, Yoann Conte at the Maison Bleue in Veyrier-du-lac and Stéphane Dattrino at l’Esquisse in Annecy, we will compose a meal with ten hands, he notes, expressing one, or rather five culinary-Savoyard thoughts. On November 8, it’s been thirty years since we arrived, with Martine, with our cardboard suitcase full of desires » !

Evian: Roussin leaves, Dussart arrives

Laurent Roussin © GP

After seven years of good and loyal service at the Royal Evian, where he developed the resort, with the neighboring Hermitage, and the nearby Verniaz des Verdier, which was once a Relais & Châteaux and was bought by Danone and its hotel estate, Laurent Roussin goes to other horizons. Next year he will launch the new Royal Mansour in Casablanca, whose mission is to acquire the prestige of its big brother in Marrakech, where Jean-Claude Messant officiates, who was Laurent’s predecessor at the Royal in Deauville. Laurent Roussin is replaced by a size in the luxury hotel industry, François Dussart, who has spent a good part of his career in Switzerland, notably at the Beau Rivage Palace in Lausanne for the Sandoz foundation, at Michel Reybier Hospitality and at the Ecole hotelier in Lausanne. A business card full of seriousness that says a lot about the new applicant, who will only have to cross the lake to discover his new territory.

François Dussart © DR

Vincent Favre-Félix the eternal return

Vincent Favre-Felix © GP

Vincent Favre-Félix was 3rd line of rugby at Oloron Sainte-Marie in a previous life, also works with Marc Veyrat who introduced him to us in the past at the Col de la Forclaz. It was at the Auberge de la Pricaz where this pure Annecyian practiced a sublime calf’s head rolled and breaded with skill and desire. Here he is now, after a remarkable stint in Veyrier, at the Auberge du Lac, as a conquering and fine starred chef in a modern place that was once a Paccard bell foundry. The place and the environment with its park decorated with works of art? The Christian Réal Foundation, with its beautiful sculptures scattered in the garden, near an abbey which was once a very comfortable hotel. Its setting is modern, with its large bay windows on the outside, its high-tech furniture, its visible kitchen, its spaced tables, its polite service. And the dishes fuse and trick on the rejuvenated Savoyard mode. The house quickly won a star with its menus which offer walks in Savoie in several stages, at 96 and 149 €. But Vincent Favre-Félix does not stop there, because he has just created a bistro in the brand new Galeries Lafayette in Annecy. A 3rd line that has the trunk!

Lyon-Ecully: rififi at Bocuse

At the Bocuse Institute in Ecully © GP

Revealed by our colleague Léna Lutaud from Figaro, the conflict between Jérôme Bocuse and the Institut d’Ecully, which bears the name of his father, is tearing the whole of Lyon and should be settled after a trial in 2023. “It saddens me because, in the end, no one will win but they left me no choice, I am in conciliation more than anything elseexplains Jérôme Bocuse. The values ​​advocated by my father are betrayed. No one will steal his name from us. All his life, he told me how proud he was of it. With the other entities in Lyon that bear my father’s name, such as Les Halles Paul Bocuse and the Bocuse d’Or, everything is going very well. Les Halles does not pay me a penny and no shopkeeper would think of labeling sausages with the name Bocuse. For his part, Dominique Giraudier, the director of the Paul Bocuse Institute in Ecully, affirms that Jérôme Bocuse is now asking him for a fee, to bear his father’s name, which the Institute cannot pay, whereas Paul Bocuse had authorized the school to use its name for free until 2037. “We are proud to carry the Bocuse name. If it has to be removed, it will be reluctantly.commented Dominique Giraudier.

Jean-Michel Cazes says it all

Don’t be fooled by the title, no doubt chosen by the publisher and which seems to be completely off the mark: Jean-Michel here speaks first of all of Cazes and vice versa. In this large volume of memoirs, published by Glénat, Jean-Michel Cazes takes stock of a life. This former IBM engineer in Paris, who will join the family insurance agency in Pauillac, taking over the estate of house wines (Lynch-Bages, but also Haut-Bages Averous which has become Echo de Bages and Les Ormes de Pez), the developing, from the Médoc to Châteauneuf du Pape, taking an interest in gastronomy (Le Chapon Fin, with his sister Sylvie), the hotel industry (Cordeillan-Bages), making Thierry Marx known, then in his media debut, working in parallel with Axa (from Pichon-Baron to Suduiraut, from Quinta Da Noval in the Douro to Disznókő in Tokaji), this tireless worker is setting out to conquer the West (South and North America, New York at large and in across), from the East (mainly China), without forgetting to carry the good word of Bordeaux and Médoc everywhere. He praises the Commanderie de Bontemps, a club of honest people, eager to make its wines known to the whole world by multiplying itself. Simultaneously taunting the immobility of the Syndicat des Grands Crus Classés du Médoc and the classification of 1855, which would only change in 1973 to attribute primacy to Mouton. And that’s all. Jean-Michel reveals himself to be both a memoirist gifted with humor and a brilliant polemicist with measure. He takes the time to take his hat off to Robert Parker who threw a few stones into the rankings and imposed his vision of a modern Bordelais, originally from Ariège, cosmopolitan at heart, defending his terroir with unparalleled generosity and passion. At 87, this passionate conqueror has never looked so young.

Alexandre Semperé in the Shadows

Alexandre Semperé and the shadow service © GP

He worked with Romain Meder at the Plaza Athénée, after Christian Constant at the Violon d’Ingres and at Ladurée. Alexandre Semperé now works at Les Ombres, under the seal of Alain Ducasse and Musiam-Paris, delivering a performance of great finesse in an exceptional place. The terrace is magical, the view of the Eiffel Tower is guaranteed large format, the tables are well laid, the reception polite and the cuisine follows, in a classic chic style and a lunch menu at 48 € which constitutes a grand bargain. All that is served there – especially the marine and vegetal register – is well worth the type of praise usually devolved to starred tables.

Martin Simolka upsets the Molitor roof-top

Martin Simolka on the Molitor rooftop © GP

At 36, he became, by taking over the kitchens of the Molitor hotel, one of the rising stars of the Accor group. Martin Simolka, a native of the former East Germany, near Leipzig, dropped his studies in economics for cooking. Trained at the Adlon in Berlin, before Alain Ducasse in Paris at the Plaza, then at the Shangri-La with Philippe Labbé and the Peninsula with Christophe Raoult, this zealous technician with the air of a good student knows how to do everything. He proves it by upsetting the “roof-top” of the Hôtel Molitor, which has become, under his palette, a small table in the shared kitchen. TTuna ataki with sashimi sauce, grilled Galician octopus, vitello tonnato with anchovy/yuzu condiment and exceptionally tender Mediterranean swordfish with mango souskay and violin zucchini are some of his star dishes. The view of all of Paris is a bonus.

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